Many folks have considered using real wood veneer in their restorations, with varying results. Following are two stories for reference.
First is from John Richardson:
Over the years of keeping my 220D & 240D running I spent way too much time at the Mercedes dealer parts counter... I have had plenty of chances to examine Mercedes aftermarket and replacement paneling prior to installation - it is wood veneer bonded to a thin sheet of aluminum and finished as a unit. (that way it conforms to the curves and depressions) With this method you might attempt a burl or exotic wood veneer and seal it with varathane or urethane (one of those comes in a satin finish - or use high gloss, like Mercedes & Jag) look for something with UV protection. Then glue or screw the assembly to the dash - you might even be able to use the slotted cutouts somehow to hold it in place without having to glue it on.
Use T-6 (hard) aluminum sheet (.040 or .063) for flat surfaces like our Ghia's dash unless you want to match the curve around the door posts, then you will have to use something softer (or spot anneal) Anyway, cut out the panel & fit it to your dash, clean the surfaces with a 3-M pad and use a good grade of aircraft primer (zinc chromate on both sides of the panel) to stop any oxidation BEFORE you glue your wood onto the aluminum panel! I would use contact cement to glue the wood to the painted aluminum (don't worry about the paint coming off - chromate is the only thing that will stick to aluminum) and after it has cured, do the cutouts, sand the edges & seal the entire assembly with the topcoat. This will prevent any moisture from swelling the wood or lifting the glue.
After it dries, you will have to figure out how to get it to stay in place - the obvious is glue. MEK (methylethykeytone) is available at stores like Eagle, Home Depot, or Home Base & is a great solvent for contact cement - but it will eat thru paint in a hurry if you let it sit. Another thought - engine turned aluminum panel might look good to some folks - seal it with varathane only after thoroughly cleaning any oil or residue... good luck!
Second is from Maximillian Busch:
I did install a cherry veneer in my Ghia as dashface. Was a big pain, because
when I glued it directly on the metal face it cracked after a while. In the
heat the metal expanded and wooden veneer dried out thereby causing some cracks.
Ok, I changed the setting by glueing particle board (2-3mm thick) on the metal
and than on top of it the veneer. Afterwards I sealed the cherrywood with 7
layers of a clear high gloss boat varnish. It looks perfect. There was also
a small discussion going on about using an aluminum backing first and glueing
onto it the veneer and then installing everything in your beloved ghia. This
sounded to me to be a very good idea, because fiddling with a big piece of veneer
in the small space of your cars cockpit was a real pain. The advantage is also
that you can handle and adjust everything on your work space, before you get
it in the car.
From the introduction until 1966, the seats were basically the same. A flat bottom seat with no head rest. The seats are not the same as those used in the Beetle. Because of the wider floor pan, the seats could be, and were, wider.
In 1967, seat cushions are cupped, which holds occupant more securely.
1968 had a one year only front seat. The head rest was integral with the seat back. Also, coupe rear seat no longer held upright by a rubber strap. Now, a wide plastic clip hooks seat to package tray.
In 1969 the head rest was modified to a stalk mounted head rest, unique in VW empire to Ghia.
1973 cars had the rear seat removed. The general consensus as to why was that it would have been difficult to implement seat belt anchors for rear seat passengers, which was then required by law.
First it is a requirement to remove the front and rear glass in order to replace the headliner. Don't even try the project without doing this. The headliner is held in place at the front and rear by the rubber gasket that holds the glass in place as it snaps on the ridge around the window opening.
As for the sides, you really need to remove the rubber seal and the metal trim (pre 72) so the headliner material can be trimmed up under it. The rear quarter windows are somewhat difficult to get in and out, but they really need to come out also.
I did my headliner after the interior was completely stripped out and the body completely painted.
So anyway, after the glass is all out, remove all the old headliner material making note of how the cross bows are mounted. You can put tape on them to insure they go back in the same positions. Remove the material from the pillars, again making note of how far the material extended up and down each pillar.
Next, goto the hardware store and buy 20 metal clips. They look like clothes pins, but have a lot stronger spring. Also, if your headliner kit did not come with any glue, pick up some contact cement used for installing Formica to counter tops. I also buy three or four disposable two inch paint brushes for about 89 cents each for putting the glue on. Throw them away when you are done with them.
Now, wait for a nice warm day (or turn up the heat in the garage). You have to have it very warm to get the headliner to stretch into place and get all the wrinkles out.
Your headliner kit should have one large piece with seams and pockets sewn in for the cross bows, and other pieces for the pillars. Put the material on the pillars first. Use the contact cement to install them.
If you want to put any sound proofing material on the roof, do it now.
Now, put the cross bows into the pockets and snap into place. At this point, you will feel you have gotten in way over your head. Don't worry, you can do it.
Put a clip on the material at the center of the front window opening at the ridge. Do the same in the back. Don't pull very tight, yet. There will be a lot of excess material hanging out. Don't worry about it.
Put clips about two inches on either side of the first one on the front, then on the back. Keep doing this until all the clips are installed.
Now, go from front to rear and pull and re clip the material until it starts to look like a headliner. Once it gets into the approximate location it needs to be, you can start trimming off the excess material. BE CAREFUL HERE. Always leave about an inch of excess material to work with until the end.
It will not be possible to get the wrinkles out of the material in the corners until you get the material trimmed close to the correct size. As you work the corners, fold the material so that there is not a 'raw' edge showing. If you have put the material on the pillars properly, you will have a nice finished looking junction between the top and the pillar.
On the sides, you can trim up to the outside edge of the roof. Eventually, you want to glue and trim along a line defined by the holes used for the screws that mount the rubber trim.
Start glueing at one corner of the front window opening. Take off one or two clips and put a little glue on the metal lip. Clip the material back on. Let it dry before you move the next two clips. Yes, this takes a lot of time. Perhaps days. Be patient.
After the front is done, do the back in the same way. Then the sides.
After all the glue is dry, remove the clips and use a razor (knife) to trim the material at the place the the metal lip curves into the body. On the sides, cut the material along the line made by the screw holes for the rubber seals.
Install all the seals and glass and your done.
Good luck