| A | 1200 | Type 1 | up to 7/65 | (1192cc 30bhp) |
| B | 1600 | Type 2 | 8/67 - 7/70 | |
| Type 1 | 8/68 - 7/70 | (USA) | ||
| C | 1600 | Type 2 | 8/67 - 7/70 | (M240) |
| D | 1200 | Type 2 | from 5/59 | (1192cc 34bhp) |
| Type 1 | from 8/65 | (1192cc 36bhp) | ||
| E | 1300 | Type 1 | 8/65 - 7/70 | |
| F | 1300 | Type 1 | 8/65 - 7/70 | |
| G | 1500 | Type 2 | up to 7/65 | |
| H | 1500 | Type 2 | 8/65 - 7/68 | |
| Type 1 | 8/65 - 7/70 | |||
| Type 181 | 8/69 - 2/71 | |||
| K | 1500 | Type 3 | 8/65 - 10/73 | |
| L | 1500 | Type 2 | from 11/65 | |
| Type 1 | 8/66 - 7/70 | (M240) | ||
| M | 1500 | Type 3 | 8/65 - 7/73 | |
| N | 1500 | Type 3 | 8/65 - 7/73 | (M240) |
| P | 1600 | Type 3 | 8/65 - 7/73 | (M240) |
| R | 1500 | Type 3 | 8/63 - 7/65 | (1500S) |
| T | 1600 | Type 3 | 8/65 - 7/73 | |
| U | 1600 | Type 3 | from 8/65 | (FI) |
| UO | 1600 | Type 3 | 8/67 - 7/73 | |
| AB | 1300 | Type 1 | 8/70 - 7/73 | |
| AC | 1300 | Type 1 | 8/70 - 7/75 | (M240) |
| AD | 1600 | Type 1 | 8/70 - 7/73 | |
| Type 2 | 8/70 - 7/73 | |||
| AE | 1600 | Type 1 | 8/70 - 7/71 | (USA) |
| AF | 1600 | Type 1 | 8/70 - 1/80 | (M240) |
| Type 2 | 8/70 - 7/79 | (M240) | ||
| Type 181 | 1/74 - 1/82 | (M240) | ||
| AG | 1600 | Type 181 | 8/70 - 7/76 | |
| AH | 1600 | Type 1 | 8/71 - 1/76 | (USA) |
| AJ | 1600 | Type 1 | 8/74 - 12/80 | (USA & Japan FI) |
| AK | 1600 | Type 1 | 8/72 - 7/73 | (USA) |
| AL | 1300 | Type 181 | 3/73 - 7/79 | |
| AR | 1600 | Type 1 | 8/73 - 7/75 | |
| AS | Type 1 | 8/73 - 7/80 | ||
| Type 2 | 8/73 - 7/79 |
Get a piece of clear tubing about six feet long from a hardware
store. Put a few drops of engine oil in the tube and install it between
the two intake manifolds where the normal balance tube connects them.
Now position the tube behind (FIF) the engine so you can see it.
When the engine is running at about 1500 rpm, the vacuum difference
in the two intake manifolds will 'suck' the oil toward the side with the
higher vacuum. This side needs to have the carb opened more.
Play with it, it works.
Phase I.
Build a 1600 engine with stock rebuilt DP heads. Add a mild camshaft
like the Engle 110. Change the intake manifold and carb to one of the Weber
or Holly/Weber progressive two barrell carbs, and change the exhaust. Most
anything is better than the stock. You have to pick the sound level you
want to live with. This will give you a noticable increase in performance
over your un rebuilt stock engine.
Cost, about $500 if you do the assembly yourself.
If you want more (is there ever enough?) go to......
Phase II
Take the engine apart again and go to 1776 pistons and jugs. This requires
machining the case and heads to accept the larger diameter cylinders. Get
it balanced.
These modifications will give some increase, but probably not as much
as you noticed in Phase I. Cost, about $300. Want more, go to.....
Phase III
Swap the heads for some gonzo ported, big valve ones and maybe change
the carbs to dual Webers. My research puts these heads at about $750 minimum
for the pair. Cost for heads and Webers, about $1,500.
Want to go Mustang hunting? How about...
Phase IV
Take everything apart again and buy a 2110 or 2180 stroker kit. Have
the case machined again to handle the larger crank shaft throws. Depending
on your resources, you may want to go fuel injection at this point. Probably
need a bigger cam to take advantage of the other changes, too.
Cost, if you have to ask, you can't afford it.
For another example, Jim Gerhardt's project, click here.
For example, lets say you have a stock 1600 with a 85.5mm bore and a
69mm stroke. The swept volume of one cylinder is 396.16cc.
pi(3.14159) * half the bore * half the bore * stroke.
Now to determine the volume of the combustion chamber.
The hard way is to find the deck height with the piston at TDC. Then you have to calculate the volume of the deck height. To find the volume of the head itself use a plate over the bore of the head. Pour in a measured amount of oil and determine the cc's. Add that to the volume of the deck height.
The easy way is to assemble the engine, set it up on a stand and put
a measured amount of oil in the spark plug hole with the piston at TDC.
(NOTE: On many type IV engines, this is much easier than method 1 because
the pistons have recessed tops which must be taken into account when determining
the cc's.)
Let's say that the amount of oil used to fill the chamber is 66cc's.
The volume of the cylinder plus the volume of the chamber, divided by the volume of the chamber is the CR. In this case:
396.16+66=462.16
And
462.16/66=7.002427